Bisket Jatra: An Exclusive Street Festival in Bhaktapur

Festivals are one of the major parts of any culture. It not only defines our values and belief but also provides an insight of tradition and practice of generations to the outsiders. As they say, if you want to know a better of any country, be a part of their festival.

Being a multi-religious, multi-ethnic and multi-lingual country, Nepal celebrates different festivals throughout the year. Altogether there are 50 different festivals, not including the various festival celebrated solely by ethnic groups. From worshipping the Gods and Goddesses to the animals like dogs for their friendship and loyalty, the array of festivals in Nepal is shocking and praiseworthy. 

Of all the unique and distinctive celebration in Nepal, Bisket Jatra is also one of the exclusive festival mainly observed in the Bhaktapur of Kathmandu Valley. Celebrated in the different parts of Bhaktapur following different ritual, Bisket Jatra attracts thousands of audience from around the Valley.

About Bisket Jatra

Bisket Jatra is nine-day eight-night long festival celebrated in Bhaktapur that marks the ancient solar Nava Barsha (New Year) and is the only festival in Nepal that doesn’t follow the lunar-based Nepali calendar. Celebrated at the start of Nepali new year (Bikram Sambat) calendar, the festival itself is not related to Bikram Sambat.

Bisket Jatra was originally called “Bisyaku Jatra,” meaning Bi as “snake” and Sya as “kill” in Newari language.

To officially start the festival, a special Tantric ritual in Bhairab temple in Taumadhi Tole of Bhaktapur is performed.

The major part of the Bisket Jatra is the procession of two chariots (Bhairav and Bhadrakali), along with palanquins bearing other deities. It begins in front of Nyatapola Temple, going through different localities of the city, occasionally stopping in some places.

Then, on the eve of New Year, two lingos (pole) of 25 feet tall are erected in two different places. The next day of New Year witnesses the crashing down of one lingo symbolizing the killing of the serpent. The two raths (chariot) are made to crash against each other, symbolizing the successful consummation of the marriage. 

Bisket Jatra in Tamadhi, Bhaktapur

In Tamadhi, Bhaktapur, the main event is the erection of 25-meter yoh si dyo or lingo (pole), which is pulled down in the evening of New Year. 

Also, the tug-of-war between Thane and Kone communities is equally popular, when both teams try pulling the chariot to their side. However, the chariot later heads towards Khalla Tole.

Bisket Jatra in Thimi, Bhaktapur

Bisket Jatra in Thimi is celebrated with Sindoor Jatra. People from the various parts of Madhyaour Thimi gather around to witness the festival. 

Celebrated according to the Vikram Era for four days, on new year’s eve, Bisket Jatra takes place in Dkshin Barahi (Kwachhen), Balkumari. On the first day of the new year, Bisket Jatra takes place in the evening in Siddikali, Thimi and on the second day of the new year, 32 khats (palanquins) with the images of different gods takes place in Balkumari in the early morning.

People hurl sindoor (vermillion powder) at 32 khats, and the ceremony reaches its peak when the khat bearing Ganesh (Hindu deity) arrive from the village of Nagadish. Participated by hundreds, crowds stay up until late morning parading up and down the street when Ganesh, borne by hundreds of men, makes a break for home pursued by other khats.

Bisket Jatra in Bode

Even thinking about a small cut or a wound, we get a shiver, now imagine the pain of piercing you tongue. It is hard for us even to imagine it, but Nepal is such a country where culture and tradition are above and beyond everything.

Bisket Jatra in Bode is celebrated with a tongue-piercing ceremony. The ceremony falls during Nepali New Year on an important temple of a Tantric deity Mahalakshmi. The priest of the temple drives a thin metal needle through the tongue of a male volunteer who prepares for this day through several days of purification and fasting.

And, this is not it, he has to spend the whole day with a needle in his tongue while roaming around the Bode village by carrying a bamboo rack of oil lit lamps on his shoulder.

According to the local legends, the tongue-piercing signifies the conquest over demons and evil spirit, which were haunting the village and used to take away children and kill them.

Who started Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur?

Who introduced Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur or Which King started Bisket Jatra? – it is often a matter of query to tourists as well as locals of Kathmandu. 

The festival of Bisket Jatra relates to the king of Malla dynasty, Jagjyoti Malla. 

Malla era lasted from 1200 to 1769 CE in Kathmandu Valley, when Newari art and architecture had its heyday. In 1482, the valley was divided into three kingdoms by King Yaksha Mall, with three sons ruling over Kantipur (Kathmandu), Lalitpur (Patan) and Bhadgoan (Bhaktapur).

King Jagjyoti Malla of Bhaktapur identified himself as the king who initiated Bisket Jatra in the history books because he was fascinated by myth and folklore of the festival.

As per the myth, once there was a beautiful princess, who was cursed as her husband would die the very night of the wedding. There was no young man who was courageous enough to marry her. 

Then, one day, an old woman’s son was selected by courtiers to marry the princess. The woman became terrified with the thought of losing her son; however, another old woman suggested the boy what to do to remain alive.

On the night of marriage, the princess fell asleep; the boy remained awake and cautious. Then, on midnight, two thread-like things came from princess nostrils, which took the form of snakes, before they would grow any further, the boy cut the snake into pieces as advised by the woman.

It was later discovered that the woman who advised the boy was Goddess Bhadrakali. Then, the deity was kept in a chariot and pulled around in celebration for saving the country. That’s why besides the principal chariot of Bhairab, there is a chariot of Bhadrakali accompanying it.

The place where Bhadrakali advised the boy still remains. However, the idol of the deity is only viewed by Karmacharya clan of Newari community. It is during the occasion of Bisket Jatra when the public gets a chance to see and worship the deity.

Intrigued by this fascinating story, King Jagjyoti ordered Bisket Jatra to commemorate every year in Bhaktapur. 

The erected lingo symbolizes and celebrates the life of King’s son-in-law; the two long red colored cloth piece attached on the right and left arm of lingo presents snake. On Bisket Jatra, people come to the area where the lingo is erected and light butter lamps.

It is believed that Bisket Jatra might have been started as a way to celebrate New Year by then. Also, snakes are connected to rain and water, which is helpful in agriculture. It is also believed that the celebration is done to show respect for reptiles.

The legend behind the chariot procession of Bhairab

As there is two main chariots on Bisket Jatra; Bhairab and Bhadrakali, and now that we know the story behind the procession of Bhadrakali, let’s unravel about the Bhairab as well.

It is believed that Bhadrakali is Kashi’s Shiva wife, and Bhairab is one of the many forms of Lord Shiva. When his wife did not return, Bhairab started looking for her and found her being worshipped in Bhaktapur.

Then he took a human form and watched the ceremony. As he was taller and different than the crowd, one of the tantrik came to know the truth. He tried to catch Bhairab, but only got some strands of hair. While Bhairab’s body vanished, his head bounced here and there on the ground. 

To act such way against a deity was a crime, so to please him, the citizens started chariot pulling ceremony of Bhairab during Bisket Jatra.

Bisket Jatra 2020

Bisket Jatra 2019 is long gone, and if you want to witness this unique celebration of Nepal’s culture, then 2020 might be the year for you. With the nationwide campaign of Visit Nepal 2020, there is a lot to experience in Nepal including Bisket Jatra.

On 2020, Bisket Jatra takes place on April and 13th is when the main event of chariot procession takes place.