Indra Jatra: The Street Festival in Nepal

Nepal adheres to a religious belief like no other countries and festivals are the significant part of this belief when we celebrate our culture and tradition draped in the lustre of ceremonial glee. Home to the various religious groups and about hundreds of ethnicity, there are centuries old rituals and practices, which are unlike any other in the world.

There are Living Goddesses in Nepal; there is a festival dedicated to dogs for their ultimate loyalty and friendship, there is a festival where enemies are forgiven, and strangers are hugged; well, the array and magnitude of festivals in Nepal can baffle anyone.

And the festival we are about to talk today is Indra Jatra, when heavenly deities are revered, Living Goddess is worshipped, and deceased are remembered. Indra Jatra goes on for several days, and many enticing ceremonies take place. As the festival is such a unique celebration, tourists pave their way in the crowd to witness and capture the moments during Indra Jatra. 

What is Indra Jatra?

The festival of Indra Jatra is mainly honored by Newar community of Kathmandu Valley. However, the celebration is so extravagant that it attracts a large influx of observers, making it one of the biggest festival in Nepal.

Also known as Yenya, Indra Jatra is a very grand religious street festival. Its meaning translates, Ye as “Kathmandu” and Ya as “celebration,” meaning celebration inside Kathmandu. As the name suggests, the festival also honors Lord Indra, who is King of Heaven and Rain God as per Hindu mythology.

Indra Jatra is celebrated for eight days starting from 12th day of a bright fortnight to the 4th day of the dark fortnight of Yanla, the eleventh month of lunar Nepal Era calendar, which falls in September.

What happens during Indra Jatra?

Indra Jatra is a very exciting festival with a special significance to the Newar community. It starts with the erection of Yosin or Linga, which is a pole from which the banner of Lord Indra is unfurled at Kathmandu Durbar Square dragged by men pulling ropes. The erected pole itself is obtained following the specific rituals; it is a tree shorn of its branches and stripped of its bark obtained from a forest near Nala. 

This glorious ceremony of pole-raising gets hundreds of spectators who gather around the Kathmandu Durbar Square and surrounding temple. 

Another main event on the very opening of Indra Jatra is Upaka Wangeu when participants visit shrines holding lighted incense to honor deceased family members.

During Indra Jatra, the chariot of Living Goddess Kumari is taken out in a procession through the main street of Kathmandu.

On every night of Indra Jatra, the shrines and ancient palace buildings around Kathmandu Durbar Square are kept aglow with oil wicks.

This eight-day celebration of Indra Jatra not only exhibits the varied culture and customs of Nepal dating back to hundreds of years; it also lets you have a small insight into how tradition is rooted inside us. There are more to unfold on the grand celebration of Indra Jatra, so keep up with us.

On the last of Indra Jatra, the erected pole is taken down marking the end of festivities which also bears Indra’s flag.

What is the history behind the celebration of Indra Jatra?

Behind the celebration of Indra Jatra, there is a very interesting Hindu mythology relating to the Lord Indra. 

As per the local legend, Lord Indra descended on earth from heaven disguised as a farmer to pick a flower of Parijat to perform a ritual for his mother Basundhara.

Unfortunately, Lord Indra was caught like a thief plucking flowers at Maruhiti, a sunken water spout at Maru. Then locals put him on display in the town square of Maru.

While on heaven, Indra’s mother got worried about his extended absence and came to Kathmandu searching gis beloved son.

Later, when locals became aware that they had actually captured Lord Indra, they immediately released him. Goddess Basundhara became so grateful to the locals that she promised to provide enough dew throughout the winter to ensure a rich crop.

Well, because of this popular Hindu legend, in Indra Jatra, you can witness the re-enactment of every happening of the event.

What are the main events of Indra Jatra?

Kumari Jatra

Kumari is the most distinctive tradition in Nepali culture, where a prepubescent is chosen as a Living Goddess after putting her through rigorous tests. The chariot festival of Kumari coincides with Indra Jatra and continues for three days when chariot runs through different routes of Kathmandu. 

The first day is known as Kwaneya when chariots are pulled through the southern part of town. Then, the second day is Yenya Punhi, and the procession known as “Thaneya” takes places when chariots are drawn through the northern part till Asan. The last day is Nanichya when the procession passes through the central section of Kilagal.

To witness this grand procession, people gather in the afternoon of the day before full moon near Hanuman Dhoka Palace. As Living Goddess Kumari is worshipped same as other Hindu deities by some families, people long-await the moment to catch a glimpse of revered little Newar girl who is deified as Kumari.

Along with the chariot Kumari, there are two other smaller chariots carrying a representative of Ganesh and Bhairav accompanied by musical bands and is pulled to the different parts of old Kathmandu.

Mata Biye

Kumari procession might literally be the epitome of attraction during Indra Jatra, but Maya Biye receives an equally high number of participants. Mata Biye means “offering butter lamps” is the event when Newars honors deceased family member in past year by offering small butter lamps along the processional route.

Participants also present butter lamps to relatives and friends on the way as a mark of respects and as this tradition is centuries old, the majority of Newar family participants in this event of Indra Jatra.

Dagin

It is another procession of Goddess Dagin, when the re-enactment of Indra mother’s going around town in search of her son is shown. Masked dancers known as Lakhey takes around accompanied by a musical band. 

To watch the unusual dance of masked dancers wearing colorful costume depicting deities is really a fascinating sight to watch.

It starts from an alley at the south-western corner of Maru square and passes by the western side Kasthamandap. As the procession proceeds, participants follow the route north to Asan and then back to Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Lakhey Dance

Lakhey Dance is popularly known as Masked Dance amongst tourists. Lakhey is a demon in Nepalese folklore who is worshiped as a deity. The costume of Lakhey consists of a mask with a ferocious face and protruding fangs; his hair is mane of red and black and has a very heavy clothing. Altogether, the costumes and mask can weigh 50 kilograms, but no matter the weight the Lakey dance must still be performed easily and gracefully.

And during the Indra Jatra festival, you will see the most famous Lakhey, Majipa Lakhey. Not just Majipa, there are many other extraordinary Lakhey dances, let us have a quick rundown.

Pulu Kisi Dance

It is believed that Pulu Kisi, an elephant is the carrier of Lord Indra, and during this street festival, Pulu Kisi who is represented by residents of Kilagal tole dances through the ancient city of Kathmandu searching hs imprisoned masters. 

Majipa Lakhey

Majipa Lakhey is also known as the Peaceful Bhairav, and the dances take place in the full moon of Indra Jatra. Majipa Lakhey and his retinue perform on the street and market squares moving with much agility.

Sawa Bhakku

Sawa Bhakku dances consist of a representation of Bhairva and his tow attendants dancing along the festival route, stopping at major street squares to perform and receive offerings from devotees.

Devi Pykhan

This Lakey dance is performed wearing masks of various god and goddesses like Bhairav, Chandi, Kumari, Daitya, Kawan, Beta, and Khya.

Mahakali Pykhan

The dance is performed at Durbar Square, and major streets square around Kathmandu when dancers dressed in a costume representing a fat, hairy ape-like creative called Khyah performs.

When is Indra Jatra 2019?

Indra Jatra is actually celebrated for eight days; however, sometimes it goes for nine days as well. Its celebration is based on the Hindu Calendar, and its date varies on the Gregorian Calendar.

September 12th, 2019 marks the main celebration of Indra Jatra, where takes place the last ceremonial celebration.